Beginner’s guide to machine embroidery
Just like any other form of arts and crafts, learning a new skill is an exciting challenge, that can also be overwhelming and frustrating at times, despite your best efforts to get the hang of things.
On this page, I put together a beginner’s guide on machine embroidery with some basic terminology and tips to help you get started. I’ll primarily focus on things that are required to work with our plushie and patch patterns – an area that in my opinion is relatively easy to start with, compared to other more advanced techniques. There are many great sources out there for you to learn more in-depth about the various applications of embroidery, which I’ll link to below if you want to dive deep into the craft.
Let’s get started with some basic terminology!
Digitizing: Digitizing entails the process of converting artwork into a digital file using software that allows embroidery machines to understand the needle's path. Digitizing can make or break an embroidery design, and create a real difference between results.
It can have a steep learning curve and the best software requires a larger investment. It is advised that beginners first learn their embroidery machines and observe how proper designs stitch out before trying to jump into digitizing.
Hoops/Hooping: Just like with traditional embroidery, you’ll need to case your fabric into a special frame called a hoop that’ll ensure an even surface and tension while stitching. Various embroidery machines come with different hoop sizes and varieties of attachment styles.
Hooping your fabric and stabilizer correctly is crucial to get good results. If your fabric is too tight or too loose it’ll distort the design and can lead to errors.
Stabilizer: There are many kinds of stabilizers (tear-away, cut-away, heat-away, water-soluble and to make things more complicated they also come in different weights and so on) and they all have different pros and cons depending on your project and fabric. I use a mid-weight tear-away for our plushies and patches, but you can also use a cut-away or no-show mesh.
Topper: For certain fabrics such as minky or other soft, fluffier, denser materials you need to add a layer of topping stabilizer to prevent your stitches from sinking into the fabric. The most common type for this is a clear water-soluble stabilizer, that you can easily remove once you’re done stitching.
Float/Floating: To float means that you'll only hoop your stabilizer and you’ll adhere the fabric or garment to the stabilizer. This setup can give you more flexibility with certain materials and can also save you some fabric. Make sure your stabilizer is nice and taut, drum-like, and use temporary adhesive basting spray and/or tailor pins to secure your fabric in place.
Threads and bobbin threads: Similarly to sewing machines, your embroidery machine will use two sources of thread to create the stitches, your top thread which will be your main color, and your bobbin thread, which is inside the embroidery machine. However, unlike sewing, with embroidering, if everything goes right your bobbin thread is not gonna show on the final design, only on the back side, so most people use simple white bobbin thread. It is also important that your bobbin thread should be thinner than your top thread - for example, I use 40WT top thread and 60WT bobbin. I recommend getting pre-wound bobbins to make your life easier.
ITH: In-the-hoop aka ITH is a method where you’re creating plushies, charms, ornaments, etc inside your embroidery hoop. This technique allows you to bring designs to life without using a sewing machine and can help you do some super-fun things.
Color change: if you’re using a single needle machine (most hobby machines) you’ll need to change your top thread for each segment of your design. Your embroidery machine’s display will show you which part and color it’ll work on next, however, the color names can differ depending on the type of machine and pattern file you’re using. Follow along the stitch order to keep track of your colors.
Stitch order: The embroidery files you get from us will come with a visual guide on what order your machine will be stitching out the design. This can help you know in advance what colors you’ll need and if there’s a need for applique or similar techniques.
Applique: The technique of applying one or more extra layers of fabric onto your original fabric. This requires multiple steps and cutting the excess fabric while keeping your stabilizer and base fabric in the hoop. It can be a bit tricky to do it at first, and a good pair of scissors (preferably curved or double-curved) will be your best friend for this method.
Some common stitch types you might find mentioned in our patterns:
Tack–down/basting stitch: a simple thin stitch segment to help keep your fabric and topper in place.
Run-stitch: a simple thin line of stitches
Satin stitch: A tight, thicker stitch type frequently used for outlines, borders, letters, and the last layer for applique.
Tatami stitch: a dense fill stitch that often consists of smaller layered stitches, used to fill bigger areas.
Jump stitches: Many older and hobby machines don’t have an auto-trim feature, meaning whenever your machine stitches out a part of the pattern and moves on to a further point to continue it will drag the thread over the fabric to its new location. These excess threads will need to be cleaned up by cutting them either between color changes or once your design is finished.
Ladder-stitches: a simple hand-sewing technique used to close the turning gap of your plushies.
Note: We may earn a small commission from sales through this link - it doesn't cost you anything and is a great way to support our work here.
More terminology and useful tutorials:
Embroidery Legacy’s free beginner course
Choly Knight’s plush sewing vocabulary and infographic
Urban Threads getting started with machine embroidery
TeacupLion's guide on hooping and working with minky and plushie fabric
We are not affiliated or sponsored by any of the mentioned companies or creators, we just simply think they're great and can recommend them.